Monday, September 26, 2011

Elba Island

Let me have the greatest pleasure of introducing you to the most beautiful hidden treasure in Italy... Elba Island, known as the Island of Tuscany.  Only an hour ferry ride away from the coast, (perfect amount of time for the first beer of the day) this historically famous, final island prison of Napoleon, yet seemingly unknown vacation destination, is enjoyed by mainly only Italians and Germans.  Other than Vesspas, tour buses with Willkommen written on the side are the only vehicles you see on the narrow, winding, cliff roads.  German tourists are so prevalent, that the menus are actually translated into German from Italian, rather than into English.  This being said, even on the busiest summer day in Elba, you feel like you're on a private fantasy island.


The oceans are saturated with salt, so floating is done with the greatest of ease, (which of course makes you feel pretty good, after the beers and pizza) and the water is so unbelievably clear, you can practically count the stones on the bottom of the sea floor.  With several dozen beaches to choose from, one can rent a beach lounger, or enjoy sun bathing on the rocks for free... mix with the locals on one of the more populated beaches, or sneak off to a private spot for some topless tanning.  Dining on local seafood, Mediterranean snorkeling or scuba diving, and watching the many colors of the sunset, are all possible activities on a beautiful Elba day.  Most of the beaches here are 1000 times better than any on the mainland; inexpensive, not overly crowded, and breathtakingly gorgeous.  There are very few places in Italy that I can recommend as highly for a beach destination

The ferry ride in

The Port


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Of course, I paid special attention to the food, I defiantly suggest ordering anything from the sea, it taste like they caught it the same morning! (and they probably did)  Most the hotels are run as a Bed and Breakfast, where they try to sell you dinner as part of the package, usually a cheaper option, but if you can avoid it, do.  The restaurants in the area give an extra effort to try to get your business ;)  Ultimately, other than your friends not knowing where the heck you are talking about, it will be a vacation you talk about for years!

My favorite Italian appetizer, Bruschetta and Steamed Mussels

Paradise

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Cinque Terra



Vernazza town 2 of 5

The Cinque Terra is five small towns along the coast of Northern Italy, most tour guides and travel books will suggest that you visit here, walking or taking the train from town to town, enjoying the old world life, the great outdoors, and the swimming holes.  However, I would NOT suggest that you do this particular trip.  Don't get me wrong, it is a beautiful area, and for the amount of food I have been eating, the walk would probably be very good for me.  But the crowds of tourist out-way the beauty of the place, the "little" towns seem tiny when thousands of visitors are shoulder to shoulder in the streets, taking pictures every five feet, and waiting in lines for everything: lunch, the train, postcards, the toilette ... A little overwhelming for "vacation"

Corniglia town 3 of 5

Overlooking La Spezia

I visited the Cinque Terra for only one day, (had not done my research and wasn't prepared) I got a taste of the area, but for me it was all I needed.  If you are interested in visiting, Do It Right and Be Prepared!  Explore the five towns over two or three days, bring a bathing suit, and remember, if you are going during summer months (even into September) it is going to be HOT!!!! (real hot) Plan a leisurely day walking from just one town to the next, instead of trying to see them all at once.  If you are traveling to more than one of the towns, get the all day pass or else each step of the way (literally they charge you to walk) will cost you.  

Perfect Swimming Hole!

Looking back through the pictures, I recognize the beauty, but while I was there, I just couldn't take the heat/crowds/"paying for everything feeling" and overall I wasn't impressed.  The people in the picture above had the right game plan, take it slow, spend more time swimming, and less time sightseeing!

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Sunset Restaurant

The most amazing meal by far was had on my last night in Greece, on the island of Hydra, at The Sunset Restaurant.  Although I would love to claim that I discovered the place, it has already been ranked #2 by ABC News for Restaurants with a View.  At this place, you not only get the perfect sunset view (hence the name) but an exquisite meal to go with it.  I've eaten Octopus hundreds of times, but this grilled octopus was different! It was served as one long tentacle and seriously tasted like lobster or crab, soft, flaky, melt in your mouth good.  We also shared Shrimp Saganaki (One of my Greek favorites) that was out of this world, prawns in a spicy tomato feta sauce, I was really upset when the waiter took it away because I wasn't finished stuffing my face with bread dipped in the sauce!!!



By now, I'm actually full, but there is still champagne to be drunk and main courses to arrive, full steam ahead!  I ordered the grilled sea bass, not knowing I was going to get the whole fish!  A bit of a surprise, but a good one, it was actually fun having some skinning and deboning  to do in order to get the succulent, light, buttered, white fish inside.  yumm yumm yum.  I can not say enough about this wonderful experience, best part, it was affordable!


All in all, Greece was an amazing vacation, friendly people, inexpensive accommodation, breath taking beaches, and delicious food.  Highly recommendable!!! 



P.S.  I mentioned the Iced Greek Coffee in an earlier post, (known in Greece as a Freddo Espresso or Freddo Cappuccino)  All I have to say, is its the original Starbucks Frappaccino!  You can get them anywhere and it's not uncommon to see the locals drinking upwards of eight a day!  You know what they say... When in Rome....




Friday, September 9, 2011

Saganaki Heaven

Cheese, Cheese, Cheese... Grilled cheese, fried cheese, cheese pies, spicy cheese dip, feta cheese, cheese salad, cheese and honey... OMG Chhheeeeeeeeeeesssssssseeeeeeee.

YES,  I went a little cheese crazy in Greece, but I swear, they make it so easy!  It was really quite surprising to find out just how heavily ones diet could be based on cheese,  and I went a little overboard (YUM).  Saganaki - basically Greek for fried cheese - is very traditional, and in the first couple days of Greece I had some at nearly every meal. : /

Cheese Saganaki


Once I found myself in a cheesy covered coma, I decided to step away from the cheese and enjoy some DIFFERENT traditional Greek cusine.  It is only fair to say that as easy as it is to be unhealthy in Greece it is just as easy to be very healthy.  Especially in the islands, many menus are focused on seafood, and grilled octopus seems to be a local favorite.

Octopus - hung out to dry

Grilled Octopus, Baby Shark with a Garlic Sauce, Sardines in Oil, Fried Bait Fish, Greek Salad, Spicy Cheese Dip, Potato Salad, and a bottle of Rose -  Dinner for Two...


There is also a number of vegetarian dishes, Stuffed Tomatoes, Stuffed Peppers, Stuffed Grapevine Leaves; all of these filled with a tomato/rice mixture.  I had the Moussaka as well, which was an Eggplant Lasagna, delicious, not traditionally vegetarian, however I did see it offered that way in some places.  Of course you have the Tzatziki, the tomato and cucumber salads, and one of my personal favorites... GREEK YOGURT!

Breakfast - Fruit and Yogurt with Honey

Stuffed Tomatoes

Call me obsessed, but I could just go on and on about the food.  I guess before I had been, I never thought much of Greek cuisine, but I sure do think highly of it now.  I will let you digest some of this yummy food for thought and put up a Recipe for Kapamas (meat ragu).  In case you feel like getting in the spirit! 

Kalispera! -good evening 

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Adventure to Greece

Hydra

Ohhhh Beautiful, Wonderful Greece, where life is slow, the sea is clear, the food is amazing, and the adventures are endless!  On my one week trip I visited three islands all in the Saronic group, Poros to acclimate, Spetses  for scooter riding, and Hyrda to swim and sun.  I know you're interested in the food....(you should be, I'm still recovering from the experience) but first we'll just enjoy the ideal travel destination that is Greece...

From the top of Spetses

Pulling into the port

Poros, my jumping off point to the islands, I immediately get a sense of the laid back pace in Greece.  In a taxi, we drive on to a car ferry to cross the last mile or two over from the mainland to Poros, once on the ferry, I ask our driver when it will leave, he's not too sure.  There are a few cars already on board, seeing as I am interested in running across the street to grab a water, and don't want this ferry to leave without me, I go to the boatman, again, I ask when the ferry will be leaving, a shrug of the shoulders is the only response.  I'm starting to get the hint, the ferry will leave when it does and there isn't much rhyme or reason, let alone a schedule or procedure.  OK, no one looks to be in too much of a rush, so I end up jumping off the boat and get that water, we wait just a few more minutes, and the ferry takes off.   No other cars had joined the boat, no whistle blew, I'm not sure who gave the word, but hey, guess its on Greece Time, and now we're moving?!?!

Poros

My favorite island was Spetses, picturesque beaches and coves one after another surrounding the entire island, many places where you could have a crystal clear beach all to yourself.  However, the most memorable feature of Spetses are the scooters!  Yeeeeeehhhhaaaaawwwww, and do I have the need for speed!!!!!  Everyone on the island drives them, and although there are horse and carriage rides available, scooters are THE ONLY way to get around.  One day Nick and I rode around the entire coast line- spending at least two hours on the winding roads, avoiding cliffs, and sharing the narrow streets with the crazy Greek drivers, all too much fun, and such a good way to see the place in an afternoon.  When we weren't exploring by scooter, we spent our time at the beach, complete with everything you need in life: sun loungers, ocean, bar, restaurant, DJ, and famous Greek Freddo Coffee (tell you more about that later!) HEAVEN <3

No Accidents!

I could live at this beach bar!

Last but not least, Hydra, a bit different from crazy scootering Spetses, no cars allowed -of course, there are a few mules for hire if you can't be bothered carrying your own luggage, but beware, they stink!  On this very relaxing island, I completely give into the Greek lifestyle: sleeping in to a decent hour about 10am, straight to the swimming whole for watching the boat traffice, staying cool in the water, and working on the tan.  A cocktail in hand by 2pm, return to the water for one last dip before an essential afternoon nap, and window shopping on the way to dinner around 9pm (because it just now cooling off).  Now if I do say so myself.... THIS IS THE LIFE.... I can't wait to come back another time and visit some of the more "well known" islands.  But even if I could only come back to these same places, I would be there in a heartbeat!

Like I said, I'll fill you in on the food oh so soon, but for now I'll leave you with a little dessert...

Baklava for ALL!